PARIS: 2007, 2015
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ICONIC SIGHTS OF PARIS
The Eiffel Tower and the Seine transformed by nightfall.
La Tour
de Eiffel
The best view for photos of the Eiffel Tower was on the Rick Steves' tour in 2007. William directed the bus driver and we had the best, most accessible view of the Tower - ever. When I went back in 2015, I was shocked at the number and aggressiveness of the vendors who literally would stand in front of the cameras, blocking your view until you purchased something. Far different from the pleasant experience in 2007. The orange, pink and blue views were taken from an art installation, a human-sized kaleidoscope of color in the Jardins de Tuileries.
Because everything was on strike in 2007, Paul and I walked everywhere. We walked from our hotel, near the Rue Cler, all the way over to the Paris opera - the Opera Garnier. We did a self-guided tour, spending some time admiring Marc Chagall's ceiling.
The opera house was built in 1860 - a mix of marble and gilt. Marc Chagall was commissioned to paint the ceiling in the early 1960's, which rocked the conservative French art world. Chagall, a Russian-born, French national who had lived in Paris nearly all his life, was 78 when work on the ceiling began.
The ceiling was unveiled in 1964 to mixed reviews. Chagall never charged for this magnificent work. I think it is splendid - one of my favorite art pieces in the world.
Galeries Lafayette
Across the street from the Paris opera, we found the Galeries Lafayette - Paris' elegant department store where, I had read, there was a cafeteria with a breath-taking view of the city.
The Eiffel Tower and Grand Palais from the rooftop of Galeries Lafayette.
Basilica of Sacre-Coeur from Galeries Lafayette.
Outside
SAINTE-CHAPELLE
Inside
Consecrated in 1248, Sainte-Chapelle (Holy Chapel) is found in the medieval Palais de la Cité.
As magnificent as Sainte-Chapelle was by day with sunlight streaming through the 13th Century stained glass, it was even more stunning at twilight.
I toured Sainte-Chapelle first in 2007, and then again in 2015 and opted to return the same evening in 2015 for a chamber music concert. The evening experience of Sainte-Chapelle had more of an impact than either of the daytime trips. It was just breathaking at night.
The
Seine
Artists talk about the light of Paris. And I agree - the light in Paris has a quality unlike anywhere else. I think the reflections off the Seine have something to do with it. Or maybe it's just magic.
Arc de Triomphe
Tomb of the unknown soldier
The monument's site used to be called Place de L'Étoile - the star - the place where 12 major Paris avenues originated, radiated out from - like ea star. Now it is Place Charles DeGaulle.
There are now a line of three monuments forming the Axe historique; they include the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, the Arc de Triomphe de l'Étoile, and the Grande Arche de la Défense.
Grand Palais
The Grand Palais is the most recognized and least visited building in Paris, I think. People are generally curious about what this beautiful, glass-domed building is, but rarely venture inside, or even visit it to get a closer look
I visited the Grand Palais in 2015 for an exhibit called "Picassomania." Must say, I had a heck of a time finding the entrance and walked around the entire building at least once - got to see packing crates from major art galleries in New York which had shipped pieces for the exhibit - it was quite exciting. I was there the first day of the exhibit at 9 am sharp! (It didn't open til 10 - great thing about Paris - there are cafes everywhere.
I remember being 19 and visiting the Louvre for the first time. My flatmate, Denise Evans had wanted to visit her fiancée in Geneva, so I went with, and we stopped in Paris for a weekend before returning to Britain. Denise had majored in art in college and was eager to show me the museum treasures. I remember coming upon Winged Victory in an alcove - no one else around - the museum felt deserted that day. The Rodin sculptures in the park that surrounded the buildings still wore traces of the student demonstrations the year before - a red headband painted on one, a bedraggled wet teddy bear stuck in the arms of another. Paris was thrilling and young; I was young, too, and thrilled - Spring, 1969.
Louvre
Memories from that first visit in 1969 are sketchy! We stayed in a funky little hotel called the Hotel At Home - it was my first encounter with a bidet! The hotel delivered breakfast to your room - coffee and croissants in the morning - coffee in huge soup-bowl cups and croissants with butter and marmalade. The pats of butter had little designs stamped on them.
Denise had been to Paris several times and she led the way. We explored the Louvre, the Jeu de Paume near the Tuileries Gardens, a light-filled, dazzling place for a first-time look at Gaugin, Monet, Cezanne, Van Gogh.
We strolled down the Champs-Élysées - I don't remember all the cars back then, but....
We even ventured into the Montmartre - which Denise assured me was nearly as outrageous in 1968-69 as it had been in the 20's, 30's, etc. We were to be en garde, stick together, and if men started following us....sure enough, a group of lads started following us, making lewd noises - Denise called them "animals" in French and tried to shoo them off. No luck. We quickly ducked into the subway and returned to our neighborhood, as the Montmartre was no place to be after dark.
Denise and I were in Paris for only one full day - we arrived from Geneva on a Wednesday afternoon, spent Thursday visiting the Louvre and Jeu de Paume and then left for Calais and the ferry home on Friday.
We just had time to visit the two museums. The Musée d"orsay did not exist then, nor did the Pompidou Center.
Pompidou Center
PÈRE LACHAISE
Sometimes, in our travels, Paul and I would do "our own thing" for the day and then meet up for dinner. In 2007, Paul wanted to visit the Eiffel Tower again, while I wanted to see Oscar Wilde.
Easily the most recognizable grave in Perl Lachaise Cemetery is Frederic Chopin's - though why the grave is engraved A Fred Chopin is a mystery to me (nothing on Google). The Cemetery does give out a map of famous gravesites, but it is difficult to navigate. I had been warned about a man who frequents the cemetery and "offers" to help you "find" famous people and then charges for it afterwards.
Chopin's was the first grave I found, and irony of ironies, Jim Morrison's is almost right next to Chopin.
The inscription on Jim Morrison's headstone is a from Greek: kata ton daimona dayton; meaning "true to his own spirit."
And now, thirteen years after this visit, I wish I'd taken more pictures of Oscar Wilde's tomb. Because of the cost of cleaning and damage to the tomb, they've constructed a barrier over it, so it can't be touched or kissed.
Notre Dame, Sacre Coeur, St. Pierre de Montmartre
Notre Dame seen from across the Seine in 2007.
Even when I visited in 1969, there was scaffolding surrounding the facade; it always seemed to be in a constant state of repair/restoration. Like others, glad I saw it before the fire.
Until I was reviewing my photos for the website (sharpening and cropping), I had never noticed the group of (green) people climbing the steeple. A Google search revealed them to be the Apostles. You can read about their amazing story in Wikipedia-the spire of Notre Dame.
Nice thing about visiting Paris in Winter, no leaves on the trees, so a clear view of the Cathedral.
William, our Rick Steves' guide in 2007, really knew his stuff about architecture and taught us about Gothic styles and flying buttresses. He took the time to point out gargoyles that provided water drainage from the roof and icons found on the outside of the Cathedral - very cool.
This is St. Denis, a Christian martyr in the 3rd Century, decapitated for his faith.
After his beheading, he supposedly picked up his head and walked quite a ways while continuing to preach!
This panel looks like the judgement day - those on the left, the faithful, looking up at Jesus and following the angel to heaven; those on the right looking pretty apprehensive and following the gargoyle to hell.
Models of the Cathedral and a statue of St. Jeanne d'Arc are prominent as one enters the sanctuary.
When I visited in 1969 we weren't allowed in the sanctuary. Gates and ropes directed us to the museum of vestments, candelabra and other church treasures stored below the cathedral.
I remember thinking how wealthy the church was to have all these gold-trimmed stoles, miters, incense holders, and how come there were so many poor people in the church who could have benefitted from all this wealth.
St. Thérèse of Lisieux
A poor quality image but I included it because it reminded me of Our Lady of Guadalupe whose image I've seen often in churches in California and Mexico.
St. Pierre de Montmartre - not an iconic sight - but a site we visited in 2015. I include the image with the sign, so I could remember the name. The blurred image represents a moment of...what? Maybe grace. It was one of those moments where what the guide said, where she led us, became background, blurred in the emotion of experience.
I had seen too many churches that day to be interested in this one, so as the guide droned on, my mind went free. Then it came, an odd deja-vu like sensation - like this place had meaning for me - why? I snapped the blurred picture, feeling rushed - I was the last of the group to leave and as I started up the leaf-strewn stairs, I heard the guide, "Oh and this is supposed to have been where Ignatius of Loyola, Peter Favre and Francis Xavier met to pray and form a group that would later become the Jesuits."
I had graduated from Loyola-Marymount University in Los Angeles in 2009 with a Master's in Pastoral Theology. My degree had been with an emphasis in spiritual direction, so I "knew" St. Ignatius of Loyola - a connection affirmed by this experience.
The desire of that group to "get back" to the roots of Jesus' teachings reminded me of my own Methodist tradition and the Holiness Club of John and Charles Wesley.
The day we visited the Sacré-Coeur, the Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Paris, a choir of nuns was singing the mass. Their beautiful soprano voices filled the sanctuary and made the visit sacramental.
