FOOD OF PARIS

Food of Paris

When Paul and I visited in 2007, we had some great food - boeuf bourguignon, cassoulet, duck. No pictures from 2007 except for our one dinner at La Varangue, a recommendation from the Rick Steves' guidebook, and this corner market on Rue Cler - which showcased the most beautiful red currants.

When I returned in 2015, one of the first tours I booked was called "Paris By Mouth", which I'd read about in the L.A. Times. The company offers tours of various arrondisements of Paris (Le Marais, Left Bank, Latin Quarter). I had heard Ina Garten talk about the St. Germain-des-Prés area, so I chose that tour.

So, when I was packing for Paris, I thought..."What would Ina Garten wear?" And I remembered she had done a series of shows in Paris - visited a chocolatier - prepared a meal for friends (Ina is always cooking for friends) - I daydreamed, "What if I just happened to run into Ina in Paris - would would I wear?" Sigh.

Paul had boeuf bourguignon - you can see the steam coming off the plate! The molten chocolate cake pic is poor quality but who could hold a camera steady when there's all that chocolate waiting to be eaten!

When we toured the Musee d'Orsay in 2007, Paul and I left the tour group and ducked into the restaurant. As you can see - it was nearly empty. There was another couple having coffee, a young woman and the two of us. Paul ordered a glass of wine; I ordered a kir royale. We sat by the window, feeling like royalty - it was a magical experience - unforgettable!

When I returned in 2015, the backdrop remained the same but the newer chairs, the crowds of people made the room much more contemporary, "happening."

The "Paris By Mouth" tour was in Ina's neck of the woods, the Saint Germain des Pres area of the city, but when our tour guide, Sara, arrived, I was highly suspicious, She was much too thin to be a real foodie!

Quelle surprise!! Not only did she know food, but she knew the people and the stories behind food! With charm and zest, Sara proved a wonderful host. She shephereded us through Poilane's - THE original breadmaker of Paris. Then ushered us over to Pierre Hermé for macaroons and desserts that were little inspired works of art - so imaginative, detailed, and so drool-worthy!

The food tour included lunch (from the various shops), and there were also little something-somethings from each shop along the way!

As if the Hermé treats (pistachio and raspberry pastry) weren't enough, she led the seven of us, all women, to Patrick Roger - chocolatiere extraordinaire - oh-la-la - a lemon-basil chocolate wonder that melted in my mouth - is this what heaven is like? I hope so!

The gustatory wonders kept coming - my first taste of foie gras was almost as sweet as the spirit Sara brought to the covered market.

Do all good things come in turquoise boxes?

Sara is very attractive and she had the butcher and fishmonger playfully vying for her attention. These artisans-in-their-own-right love what they do and it shows in the quality of what they produce.

Next, we watched the cheese expert - Twiggy - delicately press each round of cheese for the one that was just ripe enough for our lunch - which was our next stop!

Sara's friend had a wine shop just around the corner - La Derniere out - a stonewalled grotto where the floor was a beautiful tumbling block quilt pattern of black and white tile. She led us to an aged oak table in the back where we drank wine and ate. We toasted the day and each other, the cheese, the bread, and the charcuterie.

We had one last stop to complete the tour, but as we left the grotto, we noticed a film crew just outside the door. One of our members boldly asked what they were filming...

...they were filming an episode for....THE BAREFOOT CONTESSA IN PARIS!!! Ina, unfortunately, was out gathering charcuterie (how could we have missed her? Wait - did we miss her? Lingering in the back of the covered market, could she have been that figure in the shadows?? They were expecting Jeffrey at the wine shop to select the wine accompaniment (he did that in their last Paris series too!). What a thrill - somewhere in the Saint Germain des Pres, Ina Garten and I moved in the same time and space, sharing a love of Paris and food - what could be better than that?!

Tools of the trade

The first meal on my own in Paris in 2015 was lunch at the Musee de Jacquemart Andre. The museum is included in the Art of Paris - it was a little difficult to find, as was the dining room. Pretty obvious that this was a hot spot for the ladies who lunch.

For dessert, we headed over to this wonderful pastry shop La Maison du Chou where the proprietress filled cloud-like puffs of pastry with a filling of your choice: chocolate, lemon, passion-fruit?? They were indescribably delicious!

When Paul and I were in Paris in 2007, I'd searched for an iconic hot chocolate shop, but it was closed. Others had pooh-poohed it, saying there was better hot chocolate to be found elsewhere so, in 2015 it wasn't on my list of "to-do's". Wouldn't you know, happened to be walking in the Jardins de Tuileries, crossed the street et voilá - there it was - Angelina's. Stopped in for lunch with hot chocolate for dessert.

I love it when you're a single, and a restaurant treats you as if you're a queen. I was seated upstairs at a table with a view of the whole restaurant. The staff was attentive, encouraged me to take photos and even seemed to enjoy my attempts to converse in French with them. The waiter, especially, was just such a pro. I told him I always had a party to celebrate my travels and it would be wonderful if he could find me another Angelina napkin to put in my suitcase for the party - he brought back a handful. The guests loved the little touches and I still have one!

One of our group lunches with the Road Scholar tour took place in the Musee d'Orsay, the same restaurant where Paul Sr and I had taken a tour break in 2007.

Somewhere along the way, the group stopped for crepes - banana/nutella and fudge sundae. I know that I didn't have any, but can't for the life of me remember why not??

One of the most fun experiences was visiting the open market in the Bastille. The variety of offerings had me shaking my head. The produce and flowers were to be expected, but the variety of fish and shellfish, intermixed with vendors selling housewares and clothes was surprising - much like the Pike's Place Market in Seattle.